aircraft upholstery kits

Aircraft Upholstery Kits - This luxury interior kit is professionally crafted, looks beautiful and offers exceptional comfort to pilots and passengers. A standard interior kit in the color of your choice with piping and stitching options including Ultra-leather (polyurethane-leather like) is also included at no extra cost. The complete Lemke coating kit includes 2 x pilot seats, a padded center console cover (horizontal section only), a full set of matching side panels and adhesive velcro to attach the cover.

James will contact you to help finalize your order and we can upgrade to a variety of materials including FAR 25853 certified fuel resistant or even full leather to include a "center" section of micro fabric or ultra leather. Whatever you want - Rob Lemke and his team will make it happen for you.

Aircraft Upholstery Kits

Any monogram or text can be embroidered by yourself, so why not add your name to the pilot and passenger seats? Registration number or aircraft name? Include a copy of the Zenith logo or your aircraft's tail art. The only limit is your imagination (and it must be less than 20cm x 30cm - that's the other limit).

Aircraft Interior Parts From Aviation Fabricators

Please note: These products are in high demand and lead times are very long. This product is handmade in Germany and you will have to wait up to 10 months for your chairs to arrive. Definitely order with your kit. Prices include direct delivery to your door.

We can work together to meet your coating needs. With Lemke Custom Aircraft Coatings, any combination of materials, stitches and colors is possible. Heated seats, headrests, map pockets - add whatever you like.

If you're not sure what you need we can make a very simple summary. We can develop your logo (not included in this price) and incorporate it into your upholstery and again as nose or tail art.

Prices may vary slightly depending on single or dual controls, fabric and stitching options, and logos, etc., but prices don't really vary much from the prices shown here.

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This option will add a third 'jump seat' to your order. Valid for Zenith CH750 Super Duty aircraft only. For those of you looking to tackle your own siding, here's a short lesson on what worked for me. I preface this post with the statement that I am not a professional seamstress or seamstress and this is one of many surefire ways to do this.

I use a good quality vinyl like Naugahide that is made for aviation. You can also use leather or cloth. The foam I used was flame retardant memory foam that you can buy at Oregon Aero or Dynamic Systems (Sunmate Foam). The last place is very cheap. One tip about using memory type foam that I wasn't aware of is that if you live in a very cold climate, things get tough until your butt warms up. I used medium density non-memory type foam as my base (the pink stuff). You will also need what is called a screed for the vinyl base. I ordered my scrim, some foam and my stuff from Keyston Brothers.

First, you need to prepare the base for your chair base. There are many ways to do this, but I just carved some medium density foam. You can easily do this with an electric carving knife. Mine is really boring so the end result is not good.

Next, you need to take your butt foam (which you will be sitting on) and carve it into shape. Again I used an electric carving knife. On my prototype, I made the mistake of having the front of my seat too close to the seat panel and the stick interfered when the stern was fully loaded, so plan accordingly. I wanted a little bump below the knee for my foam so I carved a small wedge and held it in place with spray coating glue. Then I covered it with 1/2” foam to smooth things out. It is also glued with spray glue.

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Third, take out your butt foam and place it on the table and trace the pattern onto paper or poster board. I use a mixture of both. Trace and trace the top, bottom and halves. Once you've figured out your pattern, you should now turn it into your material. I used masking tape to tape the pattern down and then transferred the pattern to the material but added a 3/4” seam allowance. A 3/4” seam allowance seems to me to give the best results if you want a top seam. The top seam is kind of a thing of beauty where you can see the stitches. I did a lot in this chair.

The next step is to take all the material you cut and glue it to your 1/2" scrim.

1/2” scrim removes many of the foam bumps from the carving and also softens the edges. You can use 1/4" but I find that 1/2" gives a smoother look. I usually put my cut outs on the foam to see how they will leave the least amount of waste and then remove everything and spray adhesive. Spray cloth and foam for better adhesion. Once it's dry, you can take a straight razor and cut through the scrim foam to cut your section. I forgot to mention that I use a seam allowance tool that you can set the seam allowance you want and mark a pattern. I think they are available at any craft store or even Walmart.

Once my foam pieces were glued to the fabric, I started topstitching them. I almost forgot - if you're going to make a pattern like mine (two notes) you need to cut your pattern accurately. The second part of the pattern you want to cut out to insert your foam is on the bottom. I cut it in half and added about three inches to one side for the flap with velcro.

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Next, start by sewing the two wings (in my case) to the center of the seat cushion. I used a pen mark on my machine table to see where the 3/4” seam allowance was. You can sew both sides together. I combined these two pieces to give it a better look. When you're done, you can sew the sides.

When sewing the sides, I start in the center (seam) and work my way up. I find it easier to center everything, especially if you have stretched material.

If you are going to do any quilting, you may want to cut the piece a little longer because quilting requires less material. There is a formula on the web but I only left half an inch extra and then trimmed it after I sewed the wings to the center. There is no reason to lock the seams of your quilt because they will break when you sew the sides together. A lock stitch is when you back off a stitch or two at the beginning and end of a stitch to lock the thread.

Another tip is for the top seam. If you plan to sew the top of several tops, it's best to do it before you sew the sides because it's less of a hassle to move around the machine.

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Finally, I tested the fit of the top and sides to see how well they fit, and then I sewed the bottom. If you're going to add Velcro, it's best to do it before you start sewing the bottom. I tested it one more time and then installed the final piece.

For vinyl and leather, you must use needles specifically designed for these materials. Leather is a bit tricky to sew as it is a bit sticky. If you look on the web, there are many ways to avoid sticking.

Don't forget to sew the seam in the opening before sewing the sides to the bottom for the bottom slits.

I did some experimenting and found it easiest to use a sheet of tempered hardboard (1/8”) inserted into the cushion and seatback frame. I may come back later and make it out of fiberglass but I probably won't need to since it seems to be working fine.

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The total cost of both of my chairs was about $500, including all foam and materials. The bottom and back of the chair took about a day to make.

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